BETWEEN Hanoi’s glamorous French Quarter — where Graham Greene penned The Quiet American —and the Grand Opera House is what must be one of the most dangerous crossings in South-East Asia.
A fast-flowing river of motorcycles challenges the most foolhardy of locals, and is positively hair-raising for foreigners.
Nobody’s going to stop, so the only way to get to the opera house is to make like a matador.
You have to lock eyes with the hard chargers to show them you’re not afraid. You swerve, swivel and shuffle sideways to let them pass, and you need to be vigilant for the next assault.